Whisked Off

Tradition, and Tradition with a Twist: 5770 September 20, 2009

For generations, Jewish adult children everywhere have ushered in the New Year by leaving work early, packing a bag and heading home for two and a half days to reconnect with family and friends. . . and to eat.

Preparing special dishes and gathering for lavish family meals are central to the holiday. In the days leading up to Rosh Hashana, kitchens are filled with the familiar smells of recipes passed from generation to generation: honey cake, chopped liver, chicken soup with kneidelach, brisket, tsimmes, kugel, strudel. Tables are set with heirloom cloths and silver candlesticks. We welcome the New Year in the spirit of continuity with the past.

For years I have timed my arrival home for the Holiday with my mother’s final burst of cooking. Spending time together in the kitchen – with my grandmother’s food-splattered recipe cards and the tattered Jewish Home Cookbook (pub. 1956) – is one of our traditions. We discuss the menu. We catch each other up on our lives. We make the matzah balls. We glide from sink to stove to oven and back cooking in synchronicity.

This year, however, I’m far away.

Luckily, I married into a family with a similar cooking (and eating!) tradition. My mother-in-law and sister-in-law – who live in the Northwest of England – are both dynamos in the kitchen. Because of my class schedule I arrived too late to help out with the cooking but rest assured I was at the table in time to enjoy. Richard and I got to Liverpool at 3pm Friday and we only put down our forks on Sunday night.

Friday night dinner at Richard’s parents’ home was tradition to a tee. We sat down to a beautifully set table. After the blessing over the wine, apples and honey and pomegranates were passed; then challah, crackers and liver pate. In between telling stories and goofing around with the kids we ate chicken soup with kneidelach and lokshen, roasted turkey, tsimmes, roast potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, green beans and snap peas. Apple crumble, fruit and homemade parve ice cream for dessert. Everything was delicious – and familiar.

The next night at Richard’s sister’s home was tradition with a twist. Fifteen of us crowded around a beautiful table set with their late grandmother’s cloth. Once again we recited the blessings, but there was no tsimmes in sight. Richard’s sister has developed her own take on tradition and has turned the second night into a fabulous feast of fish.

We began with two homemade challot, but neither were what you’d expect. One was chocolate (for a really sweet year ahead); the other drizzled with honey and sprinkled with black onion seeds. A pretty and surprisingly delicious combination. After a choice of minted pea soup or corn chowder, the fish fest commenced.

Soy-marinated grilled tuna on a bed of rocket, tomato and cucumber; tender baked salmon; Thai curried salmon with asparagus and tomatoes; and sole goujons. The sides were Asian-inspired coleslaw with crunchy noodles; caramelized onion mashed potatoes; spicy sautéed spinach; and broccoli for the kids.

All this was followed by pavlova with crème fraîche and fruits of the forest; chocolate mousse cake; rice pudding and a gorgeous fruit plate. True to tradition, we stuffed ourselves with delicious food.

This holiday weekend was a wonderful break from school, but food remained a focus. After all, learning to make delicious food is ultimately about creating occasions to gather together around the table.

L’shana tovah. To a happy, healthy and sweet New Year.