Whisked Off

Salad Craze November 1, 2009

Lately, I’ve been obsessed with making composed salads. With the cold winter months looming ahead – already it’s dark in London at 4:15pm! – I find myself in denial. I am still buying strawberries (even though they don’t taste good). And I am doing the unseasonable: experimenting with leafy greens.

Most of my recent creations involve some combination of smoked fish, cheese and a roasted vegetable. Beets have played their part, along with cooked grains, olives and capers, sun-dried tomatoes and marinated onions. In many cases I have substituted rocket (arugula), watercress and chickory for summer’s delicate mesclun mix.

Ali's Asparagus, Tomato & Feta salad

Originally, my goal with these salads was to have a solid repertoire of go-to starters that could easily accompany any fish or meat mains, taking care not to repeat any ingredient in a subsequent course, a huge faux pas in Chef Eric’s eyes. Then I got a little carried away. Lately I’ve turned into a “mezze maniac” ditching the main course completely for meals of starter after starter after starter.

Last week I made a tomato, corn and bulgur salad seasoned with smoked paprika, dried oregano and a handful of cilantro. Finely chopped red chili gave it a really nice kick. If Mexicans made couscous this would be it; a great side dish for chili or burritos. A few days ago, at my sister-in-law Ali’s suggestion, I roasted asparagus and cherry tomatoes under the broiler, sprinkled with feta cheese and pine nuts and plated each dish drizzled with a balsamic-honey glaze. So simple, extremely tasty and very impressive looking!

On Tuesday night Richard was in Switzerland on business and a friend invited me over for dinner. When I asked her if I could bring anything she said ‘no.’ Yet, I couldn’t resist. On my way out the door I grabbed my coat and handbag… along with a lemon, a cucumber, some poppy seeds, a packet of smoked trout and bag of watercress sprigs. I didn’t mean to offend her; but I craved a salad! It was the best one I’ve made so far.

Smoked Trout & Cucumber Salad (adapted from Marie Claire: Seasonal Kitchen by Michele Cranston, 2007)

Ingredients:

• 1 red onion
• 1 tbl sea salt
• 1 tsp sugar
• 3 tbl lemon juice
• 1 egg yolk
• 4 tbl olive oil
• 1 long cucumber
• 1 tsp poppy seeds
• 7 ounces smoked trout
• several handfuls of watercress or arugula

Method:

1. Peel the onion, cut in half and slice finely. Put in a bowl and toss to coat with salt. Cover and set aside for 20-30 mins. In the meantime, proceed to step 3.
2. Drain onion and rinse with cold water, removing the salt. Squeeze out excess liquid. Put onion into clean bowl with sugar and 2 tbl lemon juice. Stir and set aside for 20-30 mins.
3. Whisk the egg yolk with lemon juice until creamy. Slowly add olive oil whisking continuously until slightly thick (you are making mayonnaise!). Season with salt and pepper.
4. Peel cucumber and slice lengthwise. Using a spoon, scoop out and discard the seeds. Slice the cucumber and toss with poppy seeds.
5. Remove the skin and any bones from the trout. Tear the flesh into smaller portions that can be arranged on the rest of the salad.
6. Put the greens on the plates. Add the cucumbers and then the portions of fish. Drizzle with the mayo and top with a mound of the pink onions.